Tundra restaurant, just off the lobby of the Hilton Toronto, has revamped its space and launched its fall menu, which impresses with some spot-on autumn dishes.
Among apps, I was impressed with a seared scallop, perfectly cooked, its flavours amplified by crumbled chorizo, tiny cubes of sweet, crisped salsify and a sophisticated celery/cilantro emulsion.
On a more playful note, a large agnolotto pasta pocket, crisp on the outside, gets stuffed with tender short rib and deftly partnered with squash puree, its sweetness marrying perfectly with the meat-filled pasta.
The meal’s highlight, though, were the mains: moist Ontario rabbit (sourced by the restaurant’s Quebec-based forager, it’s perhaps the best rabbit I’ve eaten!) tossed with honey and oyster mushrooms, deeply flavoured sauce and sweet pearl onions, the whole perfumed with thyme. It’s autumn on a plate.
A thick slab of line-caught B.C. black cod, boasting that fish’s trademark custardy texture, was cleverly partnered with appealingly bitter endive marmalade, pomegranate seeds adding contrasting sweet/tart notes.
Full marks to the restaurant’s for serving sustainable fish.
Among desserts, the highlights were silken, sophisticated chocolate ganache, deeply rich, barely sweet; and lighter-than-air cheesecake, with citrus notes.
A renovation has reconfigured the bar so that it’s now part of a brand-new, and smartly appointed, lounge area, just outside the dining room, that would be perfect for a pre-dinner drink.
With the brand-new Shangri-La Hotel Toronto launching across the street from the Hilton Toronto, competition is heating up –and Tundra is more than up to the challenge.
Private dining available for meeting groups.
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