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Don Appetit

Opinion

Don Appetit! Cucci Scales New Heights

April 24, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

It had been several years since I’d visited Cucci, a modern Italian restaurant in Oakville, Ont., just west of Toronto, so I paid a return visit, to see what executive chef Gordon Goss and his kitchen brigade are up to.

Opinion

Don Appetit! All Roads Lead to Compass Grill

April 21, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

In early April, I ventured up to Deerhurst Resort, in Ontario’s Muskoka cottage country, and sampled Compass Grill & Bar, located off the spacious lobby. It’s a bright, high-ceilinged room whose visual centrepiece is an enormous, illustrated Muskoka tourist map

Opinion

Don Appetit! Le Baratin’s French Kiss

April 5, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

About a year ago, Le Baratin opened in Toronto’s Dundas Street West/Dufferin Street area. It’s a classic neighbourhood bistro, seating 30 in welcoming, unadorned setting (bare wood tables; children’s books displayed on wall shelves). Manning the stoves, visible in the tiny open

Opinion

Don Appetit! Bar Reyna’s Snazzy Mediterranean Snacks

March 31, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

In May 2016, Bar Reyna launched in a charming Victorian row house in Toronto’s upscale Yorkville area, dishing up Mediterranean-inflected snacks. It’s a casually comfortable two-level space featuring a bar/lounge and upstairs dining area. In the cold weather, the winterized

Opinion

Don Appetit! Union Chicken’s High-Flying Bird

March 29, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

In early February, Union Chicken opened in Sherway Gardens shopping mall, in west-end Toronto. Union Chicken’s first location, the room is bright — thanks to plenty of natural light — upbeat and fun. Guests eat at individual or communal tables in

Opinion

Don Appetit! Matisse’s sleek reinvention

March 22, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

About a year ago, Matisse restaurant, in the Toronto Marriott Bloor Yorkville, unveiled a renovation that has transformed it and the adjacent lobby bar into a snazzy, modern space. The airy room is contemporary, warm and inviting all at once,

Opinion

Don Appetit! Super seafood at lbs

March 15, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

About seven months ago, lbs restaurant opened in Toronto’s financial district serving a menu primarily focused on seafood. Decked out in hard surfaces (rough concrete, plenty of tile), a palette of neutral earth tones and a high ceiling, lbs (pronounced

Opinion

Don Appetit! Anchor Bar Spreads its Wings

March 8, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

Buffalo, New York’s Anchor Bar lays claim to having invented the Buffalo-style chicken wing, way back in 1964. Since then, the famed wing emporium has opened three Canadian locations: in Hamilton and Burlington, Ont., and, last autumn, in Toronto. Located

Opinion

Don Appetit! Luckee’s Luxe Lunch

February 27, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

Last September, Susur Lee’s Luckee restaurant, in the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, in downtown Toronto, introduced weekday lunchtime dim sum. Not surprisingly, given Susur’s stellar culinary record, creative touches abound, backed up by rock-solid technique. For example, crispy/soft chicken potstickers, packed with

Opinion

Don Appetit! Nirvana’s Evolving Menu

February 22, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

Under the watchful and experienced eye of general manager Karan Bajwa, Nirvana restaurant, in Mississauga, Ont., continues to refine its a la carte menu, adding items from its catering menu — to delicious effect. A recent visit, for example, unearthed

Opinion

Don Appetit! STK Toronto's Modern Steakhouse Vibe

February 14, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

This isn’t your father’s steakhouse. It’s STK Toronto, the first Canadian location of the upscale U.S. chain, and it opened last September, occupying an 8,800-square-foot space in the former Four Seasons Hotel, in the tony Yorkville area. Gone are the

Opinion

Don Appetit! Barnsteiner’s Refined, Home-Style Plates

January 25, 2017 by douloff
Don Douloff, Food Writer

After successfully running the beloved Corner House restaurant, in mid-town Toronto, for 15 years, husband and wife team Herbert and Michelle Barnsteiner, in 2014, took a well-deserved break and moved on to their next venture. That would be Barnsteiner’s, a