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Yuzu’s Sushi a Cut Above

Yuzu Sushi and Sake Bar quietly goes about its business in Toronto’s Entertainment District, flying well under foodies’ radar.


May 24, 2011

Yuzu restaurant is located in Toronto's Entertainment District.

Yuzu restaurant, in Toronto's Entertainment District.

Yuzu Sushi and Sake Bar quietly goes about its business on Adelaide Street West, in Toronto’s Entertainment District, flying well under foodies’ radar.

Yet sushiphiles ignore it at their peril, because there’s something good going on here. Indeed, the $55, seven-course Yuzu dinner offers terrific value.

Leading things off is a clear, smoky osuimono broth floating enoki mushrooms and chewy clams.

The kitchen is a dab hand with sushi and sashimi, and that’s very much in evidence with the next course, velvet-textured tuna tataki perched artfully on greens and complemented by a balanced ponzu sauce.

And then the sashimi – fat slices of seared sea bream; raw shrimp, sweet and succulent; melt-in-the-mouth B.C. tuna; tender grouper.

Less successful was the tempura course. While generous enough, the shrimp and assorted veg (including sweet potato and mushrooms) were oily and spongy, and not as crunchy as they should have been.

Nigiri sushi, though, excelled, highlighted by plump glazed eel topped with buttery avocado; seaweed-marinated fluke wearing edible gold leaf; and king salmon that practically dissolved on the tongue.

The kitchen marinates black cod for three days in miso, then broils it until it morphs into custard-fleshed black-cod candy. Divine.

To finish, intensely nutty black-sesame ice cream, the ideal palate-cleansing finale

Service is sweet and friendly. And the airy, mid-sized room – casual, but with a low-key sophistication – is perfectly in tune with its Entertainment District neighbourhood.

Upstairs, two private rooms are available, seating 20 and 40, and between them, accommodating 100 for cocktail receptions.

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